The Tiare flower

Gardenia tahitensis, Gardener, Rubiaceae

Originally
The Tiare flower, “Gardénia tahitensis” has become the emblem of French Polynesia like Lavender for Provence. Its genus “Gardénia” was given in homage to the Scottish botanist Gardener, who planted extensively in these islands.

Of the history
The Gardenia was first observed on Captain Cook's second voyage. The first sample was brought back to France in 1824. This Gardenia tahitensis is well known to travelers who land in Tahiti, because it is the flower with which the large scented garlands offered to all newcomers to the island are made.

A bit of botany
It is a small shrub with a powerful fragrance. Gardenia is heavier and fresher even if it is more intoxicating than the jasmine with which it is associated. Its leaves are glazed, its flowers are generally white sometimes yellow. There are several species of Gardenia, they all have fragrant flowers.
Gardenia florida is native to China and Japan where tea is flavored with its flowers.
Garenia citriodora originates from South Africa. Its flowers smell of orange blossom, they are substituted for these in the bridal bouquets that are worn in Europe. The Gardenia grandiflora is native to Indochina, its leaves and flowers have a very good smell.

Its mode of extraction
No essential oil is extracted from the flower. Gardenia flowers are macerated in coconut oil with grated and fermented coconut. This macerate is exposed for three weeks to the sun, this will give the famous Monoi oil. You can also make Monoi with the buds of the flower. A minimum of ten buds are needed for a liter of copra oil, then left to macerate in the sun for three weeks as well. It doesn't have the same smell...
These oily macerates are like an enfleurage. The smell of the flower will permeate the oil.

In perfumery
For Western perfumery, a Gardenia is grown in Reunion, the scent of which is extracted with petroleum ether to obtain an extract and then washed with alcohol to obtain the absolute.
Gardenia gives character to a floral accord. It exhales a sweet, exotic fragrance and evokes green notes. In addition, its scent of white flowers with green accents can evoke tuberose. It is definitely a heart note.

You can find this Tiare flower note in our solar perfume, Orée Dorée.

Based on research by Tachka Sofer

References:

Natural and cultural history of perfume plants, FR. Aubaille-Sallenave, ed. Ibis
The perfumes
E. De Feydeau, ed. Laffont
Essential oils for your health
G. Roulier, ed. dangles
A World History of MCGrasse Perfume
ed. Somogy, art editions