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Today our world is changing faster and faster and so is our profession.
Faced with this, it is important that perfumery retains its identity and its specificities. His sometimes so poetic language allows us to maintain the link between the past, the present and build the future.
Extract that comes from concretes or resinoids. These are diluted in ethyl alcohol and then frozen at -15°C. The extract is then filtered and then concentrated by distillation to remove the alcohol. Absolutes are considered very rich for the creation of perfume compositions.
A perfumery accord is the result of the mixture of several raw materials. The balance and quality of this accord creates a unique scent, defining the heart of the perfume.
The still is the instrument which made it possible to develop distillation, a process of extraction by steam. The distillation of lavender, for example, makes it possible to separate the essential oil of lavender and the floral water.
The tank contains a basket in which the materials to be distilled are placed. The plants are traversed by the steam. This one charged with the odorous molecules follows its way in the neck of the swan where the carbonic gases of the steam mix with the odorous molecules. Everything is cooled in the circuit of the serpentine and is recovered in the Florentine vase which receives both the floral water and the essential oil which floats on the surface. A spout, tap located at the top of the vase allows you to recover the essential oil while the tap placed at the bottom of the vase allows you to recover the floral water or the hydrosol.
In the perfume sector, ethyl alcohol is a neutral solvent that is generally used as a carrier in the different types of perfume. It is interesting because being neutral, it does not interfere with the olfactory molecules of the perfume concentrate.
It is usually produced from fruits or vegetables, which make it naturally through fermentation. This reaction occurs when yeasts break down the sugars contained in fruits or vegetables.
In perfumery, this name is used mainly to designate aliphatic aldehydes (synthetic products). Their marked use is at the origin of perfumes of the so-called aldehyde type.
Aldehydes are characterized by greasy, warm and soapy smells, their smells make us think of the smell of laundry and hot iron.
Animal material more commonly called ambergris which originates from a secretion formed in the stomach of sperm whales.
Perfumes with warm, sweet, sweet and vanilla notes with a very marked trail. Often used to sign sensual and seductive oriental fragrances
Sensation of volume that combines a sensation of intensity and richness.
Physico-chemical study of an odorous substance to know its nature and identify its components.
Deprivation of smell
It is the family of aromatic ingredients such as thyme, lavender, rosemary, typical of masculine perfumes. It is often accompanied by citrus or spicy accords.
Metaphor that tries to express the final work of the perfumer to give his composition a beautiful harmony and a beautiful agreement of these components.
This is the construction of a note in an artificial way, this reconstitution is opposed to ingredients of natural origin.
Otherwise known as "pink pepper", pink peppercorns are part of the pepper family. They come from different regions of the world such as Madagascar, Reunion Island etc.
Benzoin tree sap from Indochina. It is harvested in Malaysia, Vietnam and Laos. It has a semi-liquid consistency and can become very hard or even brittle once solidified. Its smell is vanilla, resinous etc.
It comes from a cross between the lemon tree and the sour orange tree, the bitter orange tree. Its rind is much thinner than that of other citrus fruits, even that of the lemon. It arrived late in southern Europe where it appeared at the end of the XNUMXth century under the name of bergamotto, probably from southern India via Egypt or the Greek islands. It would be the only cultivated citrus of European origin. It is not known in the wild, it is probably the result of one or more transplants.
Scientific discipline that studies the reproductive cycle of plant species.
Science based on genetic research. Creation of olfactory molecules by biological method
Expression that is said of a perfume, a composition, a smell that alerts the senses. A heady scent gives a high that goes to the head, which produces a certain inebriation
What makes a perfume, an accord, a note unique.
From the same family as ginger, turmeric and galangal. The light almond green capsules, white when washed, are tight in small clusters on the branches. These small capsules contain between 15 -20 black seeds. It is from its seeds that we extract the essential oil used in perfumery, of the minuscula variety. World production, estimated at around five tonnes per year, is very limited.
In perfumery, it is an expensive and distinctive product that is only used sparingly in perfumery. It is a sweet, warm and spicy heart note which makes it very attractive in composition in floral perfumes, chypres. It goes well with fresh waters, masculine fragrances with a coniferous note.
Appellation that comes from a perfume that François Coty titled in 1917. This perfume was the precursor of a large family of woody perfumes based on notes of oak moss, cistus, labdanum, patchouli and bergamot.
Non-alcohol soluble fatty vegetable matter found in concretes
Method of grouping different perfumes into specific olfactory families according to their composition.
Each perfume evolves over time...
It is made up of top notes, perceptible for 30 minutes after vaporizing the perfume, dominant heart notes for 4 hours, and lingering base notes for 6 hours and more.
Due to the low yield obtained by certain fragrant materials such as for the rose (a 1/5 of the final product) we will carry out a second distillation with the remaining floral water, this stage is called “cohobage”. A second oil is then obtained (the remaining 4/5) with a different olfactory profile but also containing phenylethyl alcohol. After filtration of the oils, they are mixed to obtain more yield.
Method of meticulous mixing of different batches of the same essential oil which allows to have a constant quality when certain harvests are less good than others
Material that goes into the formulation of a perfume.
Although originally this term is related to the field of music, a composer can be the one who creates the perfumes
This term is used to talk about an association between several products (natural, synthetic). It also names the purpose of the work of creating perfume.
The perfumed composition before being mixed with the alcohol is called a concentrate. The mixture then with alcohol at different dilutions will give rise to colognes, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, perfumes or perfume extracts.
Increase tenfold the intensity of olfactory elements in a perfumed composition.
This technique consists of placing the flowers in a large tank called an “extractor”. The content is then passed to the solvent, hexane is preferred. Highly volatile in nature, hexane will “carry” odorous molecules out of the plant. This washing is carried out three times in succession at low temperature to capture the maximum number of olfactory compounds. The scented solvent is recovered. Under vacuum, the solvent is brought to a boil, which will allow it to evaporate. This leaves us with a fatty substance made of wax impregnated with the odorous molecules of the plant, which solidifies in the open air and at room temperature. This paste called "concrete" is then washed and purified with alcohol. The alcohol is then removed in a concentrator. In the end, all that will remain is a liquid called "absolute". Plants concerned: all delicate materials, such as jasmine, rose, orange blossom, tonka bean, mimosa, etc.
Chemical compound put in a product in order to delay its expiry and/or its oxidation
Assortment of means put in place to maintain the qualities and aspects of perfumery products.
In perfumery, the body can refer to the heart note. Each perfume evolves over time...
It is made up of top notes, perceptible for 30 minutes after vaporizing the perfume, dominant heart notes for 4 hours, and lingering base notes for 6 hours and more.
All products used to clean, maintain and beautify the external parts of the human body. These products can be similar to toiletries, beauty treatments, etc.
Title that defines the creative process giving birth to a new perfume composition by the perfumer-creator, which comes from his imagination, his expertise as well as the evolution of trends.
Leathery notes in perfumery are dry smells that resemble the smell of leather (smoke, burnt wood, birch, tobacco, etc.)
Each perfume evolves over time...
It is made up of top notes, perceptible for 30 minutes after vaporizing the perfume, dominant heart notes for 4 hours, and lingering base notes for 6 hours and more.
The heart notes are small molecules, light and volatile, hence their perception in a limited time.
Allows to reduce the power of a scented composition.
Said for a perfume that would not find harmony between its different notes.
To distill is a word that comes from Arabic which means to separate. We first capture the vapor of the water, then the essence of the fragrant materials of the plant and finally we separate the essential oil from the floral water. Distillation is done using the still, a device designed to separate products by heating and then cooling.
Action with water vapor to collect fragrant substances (essential oils) contained in natural raw materials
It is the most present fragrant substance from an olfactory point of view in a composition.
Adjust, during a creation, the right quantity of the different components of a mixture to have the best olfactory rendering.
At the end of the XNUMXth century, the bitter orange tree, the bitter orange tree, entered into a scented water, called “Aqua admirabilis” produced at the convent of Santa Maria Novella in Florence. It is composed of essence of bitter orange tree, citron, bergamot and lemon, rosemary, lemon balm, lavender and neroli flower. A man named Feminis, itinerant merchant-drogue peddler, goes to buy this water at the convent. He arrives in Cologne where part of his family resides. Having no heirs, Feminis will pass this recipe on to his grand-nephew, Gian Maria Farina who already owns a small distillery. The latter will redo this recipe and give it the name Aqua admirabilis Colonae. It was not until the following century that eau de Cologne experienced truly European distribution.
Eau de Cologne is a fresh and light water with a very low concentration of perfume ranging from 3 to 5%. Mainly developed around citrus, fruity or floral notes, eau de cologne does not stay long on the skin. Due to its low concentration of perfume, it remains the cheapest on the market. It is ideal for refreshing yourself several times during the hot days of summer.
This is the water that was used for the distillation called rose water following a distillation of roses or rose hydrosol. Separated from essential oils, this water nevertheless remains slightly fragrant and less loaded with active ingredients.
Emanation that arises directly from a composition.
Aroma that is released from a raw material.
Release of a warm, balsamic scent.
This method is intrinsically linked to Grasse perfumery. She made her reputation around the world. This process consisted in letting the flowers macerate in a layer of odorless cold fat, prepared during the winter, on glazed frames, which would be stacked on top of each other. These piles could reach 3-4m. height. The flowers were changed regularly, which explains the large workforce and the quantity of flowers requested. Once the fat was saturated with odors, it was heated to a very low temperature and filtered. A solid perfume was obtained which was then washed with alcohol in order to dissolve the fats and reveal the odorous molecules.
Harmonious harmony of olfactory elements where no smell takes over the others.
Process of a liquid becoming gaseous and often accompanied by an odor. The more volatile the character of the substance, the faster evaporation will occur.
Enhance one or more notes in a scented composition.
Give off a scent.
Method of extracting essential oils by cold pressing bark or wood.
Cold expression: this technique is reserved for citrus fruits, it does not require heating, unlike distillation. The product obtained is therefore faithful to the smell of the raw material, slightly denatured, with no cooking artefact of the molecules. Industrialization will imitate the gestures and physical principles that the ancient Greeks did by scraping the zest with the pumice stone and recovering the essence directly by squeezing the sponge. In an extractor which contains large grating discs the citrus fruits are put inside. By electricity, the machine turns these graters which extract the essence contained in the secretory pockets on the zest of the fruit. What comes out is called essence and not essential oil.
Developed in the 70s, it is a method that faithfully restores the smell of plants. Supercritical CO2 extraction is based on the compression of carbon dioxide that is sent to the tanks that contain the raw material, until it reaches the state of fluid. In this supercritical state, the gas acts as a selective solvent, entraining the compounds it dissolves. Once the compounds have been recovered, the CO2 becomes gas again by depressurization and leaves no residue in the extract.
Odorless, non-polluting, non-toxic, supercritical CO2 is increasingly used for the extraction of plants as an ecologically viable alternative to organic solvents such as hexane. Since the process temperatures remain relatively low at 31°C, the odorous compounds are not altered by the heat. It is mainly used for spices. Faithful to the principles of green chemistry, as well as to the original aromatic profile of the plant, CO2 extraction is acclaimed by certain brands anxious to give a certain non-polluting image. It is compatible with organic farming, however it has an energy cost due to gas compression.
Between eau de toilette, eau de parfum or perfume, the perfume extract is the most concentrated product. Between 20 and 40% concentration, it is the top of the range in the family of perfumes!
There is no legislation on the denominations in perfume but the uses of the profession guide us, in comparison an eau de Cologne is concentrated around 3 to 5%, an eau de toilette between 8 and 12% and an eau de perfume between 13 and 20%.
Extract olfactory molecules using different processes: Enfleurage, distillation, expression, supercritical fluid, etc.
Operation which consists of removing the non-soluble suspended parts of a product using a filter made of fabric, paper, etc.
Designation of olfactory elements of natural or synthetic origin with a high molecular overload which serve to improve the character of a composition and to make its persistence longer
Mainly grown in Morocco and Tunisia, Orange Blossom grows around the Mediterranean. Its smell is floral, powdery, sweet, much less fresh than Neroli. This essence is obtained by extraction with volatile solvents of orange blossoms
Present all around the Mediterranean, Orange Blossom is mainly grown in Morocco and Tunisia. Orange Blossom Absolute is obtained by volatile solvent extraction of bitter orange blossoms. Its smell is floral, waxy, green, powdery, sweet, heavier and less fresh than the essence of Neroli.
Old word that defined the action of smelling an odor
Term to describe the smell of a flower.
Each perfume evolves over time...
It is made up of top notes, perceptible for 30 minutes after vaporizing the perfume, dominant heart notes for 4 hours, and lingering base notes for 6 hours and more.
The base notes are made of molecules, heavy and not very volatile, it is they that you can sometimes even smell the next day at the bend of a scarf or a sweater.
Fragment by distillation the various volatile components of an essential oil.
Originating from Latin, designates a fragrant smell. The characteristic of the word fragrance, the smell is necessarily pleasant.
Classification of odors around a basic olfactory concept. This term also echoes all the elements available to the perfumer.
Method of cooling an alcoholic solution to around zero degrees in order to improve the precipitation of the less soluble elements in order to obtain, after filtration, the clearest possible product.
To meet consumer demand for ever more naturalness, in the 80s the perfumery industry diverted a technique used to analyze the composition of gases in the search for petroleum, so that the perfume gives illusion of a living flower. A glass bell is installed in the open air, a flower is imprisoned there to analyze and identify its molecules. The smell of the flower is moved by a gas stream before being imprisoned in an absorbent cartridge which will allow its chemical formula to be reconstituted in the laboratory.
Citruses include citrus fruits, Citrus. Originally, the cultivated forms derive mainly from the four ancestral taxa, the citron (Citrus médica), the wild mandarin (Citrus reticulata), the grapefruit (Citrus maxima), and the papeda (Citrus micrantha).
The Citrus notes are always tonic and light. These are definitely top notes. The fresh citrus notes bring "pep", life, joy and lightness to more classic fragrances.
Fragrant substance extracted from plants through distillation or by expression.
Hyperosmia is the exacerbation of the sense of smell. This sometimes happens in pregnant women!
Short for the “International Fragrance Association”. This is an institution created in 1973 which advocates the use of certain olfactory materials. These recommendations are based on several research works of the RIFM which aims to protect consumers.
Diminutive “Identical Nature”. It designates synthetic molecules that reproduce molecules of natural origin. Ex: a molecule of synthetic thyme origin.
Widely used in Antiquity, infusion is an ancient maceration method between a solid or pasty element and a hot liquid, such as alcohol or oil, like an infusion of tea.
After being cooled, the contact between the dry matter and the liquid must last, often around 6 months, which is why this expensive process is no longer used today.
Ingredients that come from nature, either of vegetable or animal origin. In ingredients of natural origin we have multiple ingredients in perfumery: flowers, fruits, leaves, spices, rhizomes, barks, woods, resins... There are around 500 raw materials available vs 5000 when we add the ingredients of synthetic origin.
The ingredients of synthetic origin are derived from petrochemicals, therefore petroleum. Through various chemical reactions, ingredients are obtained ready to be integrated into perfume or cosmetic formulas.
Generally more affordable and more easily stabilized in formulation, these ingredients develop the possibilities in terms of creation by broadening the perfumer's palette (5000 ingredients available vs 500 natural)
These raw materials make it possible to create from scratch odors that do not exist in nature, to reproduce odors from nature or to capture natural odors that are impossible to extract, as is the case for lilac, lily of the valley or even hyacinth (cf. silent flowers)
Olfactory matter which is obtained by fractional distillation.
Perfumer's jargon designating the perfume (the alcoholic solution of the perfumed composition).
Collection of products derived from the same perfume, sold under the same name.
In recent years, we have seen many launches called flankers, which are slightly different versions of the initial perfume but which keep all or part of the name of the best seller.
A perfume is linear when its smell presents the same olfactory rendering throughout its evaporation.
Said of a perfume presenting impurities and which lacks clarity.
Perfume manufacturing phase which consists of mixing the alcohol and the concentrate for a more or less short period.
(see MACERATION).
Basic element of a formulation in perfumery.
First time of rest after the development of a concentrate before the setting in alcohol and the maceration.
Ability by which the brain retains memories related to smells.
(see KEY).
This plant material is usually found on the trunks of oak present in humid regions. It can be seen in France (Massif Central), Yugoslavia and Morocco. Extracted using solvents, the concrete is obtained, from which the absolute is extracted by alcohol extraction. This extract may have a smell of moss, woody, marine etc.
Oak moss grows on oak trunks and branches in humid regions. It is harvested in France (Massif Central), Morocco and Yugoslavia. Extraction with solvents makes it possible to obtain the concrete from which the Absolute is obtained by extraction with alcohol. Its smell is characteristic: powerful earthy smell of moss, humus, woody mushroom, with marine inflections.
Common name for bitter orange blossom essential oil. This denomination comes from the Duchess Flavio Orsini who was nicknamed the Princess of Neroli.
Organ used to smell. This word also refers to perfumer-creators.
This is the olfactory nature of a raw material or a perfume. A note sometimes floral, fruity, woody, aromatic… The notes that make up a perfumed scent are classified into 3 categories according to their duration of perception: top note, heart note, base notes.
(see DEPARTURE).
Volatile emanation which appeals to the sense of smell and which is felt. In perfume, this emanation applies primarily to raw materials or simple notes.
One of the five senses of the human body. This sense gives us the ability to smell and make odors perceptible.
pertaining to olfaction.
Ability to smell odors.
Professional piece of furniture which is used to store the various raw materials used in the design of a perfume. Very impressive by the number of vials available, it is often replaced today by computers and specialized software.
Scientific discipline of odors
Chemical effect, alteration of a perfume that comes into contact with oxygen. Oxidation can also be due to heat, sun etc.
Assortment of raw materials that are prioritized by a perfumer at the start of his creative process.
This is a research group that does comparative research. A sample of people is invited to follow interviews and/or questionnaires during a given period in order to have a better knowledge and a necessary distance on the necessities of a market or to test concepts or perfumes.
Purpose of a perfumer's creation.
This word is often misused to designate a note or a fragrance. It is above all the most concentrated product in perfumery.
Standard denomination which designates everything that is directly or indirectly related to the world of perfumes (shop, factory, laboratory etc.)
These are the different denominations of a perfume according to their concentration. There is no legislation on the denominations in perfume but the uses of the profession guide us, in comparison an eau de Cologne is concentrated around 3 to 5%, an eau de toilette between 8 and 12% and an eau de perfume between 13 and 20%.
Previously, the same perfume was available in these different concentrations. The concentrate was the same and only the concentration changed. Now, it's not uncommon for recipes to also vary from a perfume to an eau de toilette!
The perfumer can be a salesperson and a perfumery consultant, but above all he designates the person who creates the juices.
Distortion of olfactory perception when the person is confronted with an odor
Following covid 19, we also speak of "phantosmia" to highlight the appearance of phantom smells like an olfactory hallucination.
A fragrant oil that has existed since antiquity, patchouli is a tropical plant native to Asia. Its essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the dry and fermented leaves. Its smell is green, earthy, camphorous and frothy.
Tropical plant native to Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. Patchouli has large fragrant leaves from which the essential oil has been extracted since antiquity. The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the dry and fermented leaves. The powerful smell of patchouli is woody, earthy, camphorous, green, of moss.
Essential oil resulting from the distillation of young leaves and very small citrus fruits called "small grains". This term is used for the essential oil of bigarade, sweet orange, mandarin
Material resulting from the process of enfleurage, an old method that made it possible to extract olfactory compounds from fragile flowers such as roses, jasmine or mimosa (see Enfleurage).
Deposit created at the bottom of a container following the mixing of an insoluble product in a liquid.
It is to increase the intensity or the persistence of one or more notes of a perfumed composition.
Solidified flow of certain plants. (see also Balm).
Extract obtained from a dry raw material of vegetable origin by means of a solvent (resins, balms, etc.) These extracts are often included in the base notes.
Diminutive of “Research Institute Fragrance Materials”, it is an American collective whose vocation is to prevent the bad effects of using certain raw materials. These analyzes are then communicated to IFRA (See IFRA).
There are several kinds of roses around the world which is involved in the design of perfume. The best known is the ROSA CENTIFOLIA or ROSE DE MAI then comes ROSA DAMASCENA or ROSE DE DAMAS, from the ROSACEA family. These flowers are mostly grown in France, Morocco, Italy, Turkey and Bulgaria. The extraction of the absolute and the concrete are obtained thanks to volatile solvents. The essential oil is obtained through the distillation of water vapor from the petals which are of course picked by hand. Each variety of rose expresses a unique scent.
Several varieties of roses are used, mainly ROSA CENTIFOLIA or ROSE DE MAI and ROSA DAMASCENA or ROSE DE DAMAS, from the ROSACEAE family. The varieties intended for obtaining rose essence are grown in France, Italy, Morocco, Bulgaria and Turkey. The Concrete and the Absolute are obtained by extraction with volatile solvents. The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the petals freshly picked by hand. Each variety of rose expresses a different scent. The White Rose has green/hyacinth floral facets. The Red Rose has fruity facets (strawberry/raspberry). The Tea Rose has tea and apricot facets.
Sandalwood emanates a woody, balsamic, oriental, enveloping, warm smell, etc. It grows in the countries of South East Asia, mainly in India in the province of Mysore. Its essential oil is created thanks to water vapor in the heart of the wood which is reduced to dried chips, there are also roots converted into powder and dried.
Sandalwood grows in South East Asia, mainly in the Indian province of Mysore. The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the heart of the wood reduced to dried chips but also of the roots reduced to powder and dried. Its smell is woody, oriental, balsamic, powdery, milky, warm, enveloping, velvety and very tenacious.
Element that stimulates the sense of smell
Olfactory rendering when a person leaves behind the smell of a perfumed product.
Marks the premises of modern perfumery. The idea is to copy certain scents from nature by reconstituting unique floral notes such as rose, violet, lily of the valley, etc.
Used to study and control elements that are used to create perfumes. This method is complementary to chromatography.
During the development of a perfume, it is mandatory to check its stability (no physico-chemical over time). For this, modern means of ovens reproduce accelerated aging.
Means in Latin "of his kind". In perfumery, it refers to one's own skin smell. Can sometimes suggest an "animal" smell.
Terms used in perfumery to designate the base product to support the concentrate such as ethyl alcohol. In cosmetics, the carrier can be soap, a washing base, etc.
Former designation of infusions. (See infusion). Hot or cold decomposition of the soluble parts of a solid compound by prolonged infusion with a liquid, usually alcohol-based
Said of a particularly persistent fragrance.
Comparative examination that assesses the quality and value of a perfume composition.
A major accord around which the perfumer develops his ideas.
Particular highly absorbent paper, cut into thin strips intended to receive a juice and which allows to appreciate its smell as well as its evolution.
Vanilla comes from a climbing orchid that can measure up to 50 m in length. It is native to Mexico but was exported to Madagascar in the 34th century. Its absolute is created from vanilla pods which are harvested before maturation and then matured for XNUMX months. Its smell offers a sweet, soft and balsamic side.
Liana originating from Mexico, vanilla was introduced in the 50th century in the Indian Ocean, Madagascar, Reunion and the Comoros. It is a climbing orchid that can reach 34m in length. The Absolute is obtained by processing the pods harvested before they are completely ripe, which are subjected to a XNUMX-month maturation process. Its smell is sweet, balsamic with a sweet side.
Said of a perfume that no longer has its original smell or color. This phenomenon is generally due to chemical or physical reactions such as oxidation, light or heat.
When a note evaporates very quickly
It is a tree of the Annonaceae family, native to Southeast Asia. Ylang-ylang is cultivated for its flowers which are distilled and then used in perfumery.
Ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata), or ilang-ilang, is a tree of the Annonaceae family, native to Southeast Asia. It is cultivated for its flowers from which an essential oil widely used in perfumery is extracted by distillation.
It is citrus peel (citrus family). It is from this bark that the essential oil comes. (See citrus)
End of the Virevolte adventure
Do not hesitate to consult the list of our resellers if you wish to buy one of our perfumes.
Julie Desoomer
